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Dead-man's Swamp
Ever since the mention of that
name back in the Summer of 1942, I have had an obsession with finding out
more about "Dead-man's Swamp."
Dead-man's Swamp is a particularly
inhospitable tract of real estate, originally 12 miles X 18 miles, in the
heart of central Northern Michigan. It has historically been singularly
resistant to the seemingly inexorable inroads of man, and, in fact, has
exacted a high price from many who were willing to test their mettle against
its harsh realities. It did not, after all, get its name coincidentally!(1)
A number of people attempting to learn its dark secrets lost their lives
in that quest.
I spoke with Papa Ruhlig, who
was ninety-seven years old, and who had lived his entire life around, and
often in, Dead-man's Swamp. He spoke knowingly about several loggers
and hunters who entered Dead-man's Swamp and who never returned.
They could have been killed by bears who still survive there, they could
have drowned, they could have sunk from sight in seemingly firm ground
that yielded to bottomless mire. Whatever happened to them we will
never know. We can only surmise. They have become part of the
mystique of Dead-man's Swamp.
I inquired of Papa Ruhlig why
anyone would venture into Dead-man's Swamp. He shook his head; and
then tried to explain. "It's a feeling you get there like nowhere
else on earth. Maybe it's the danger, the foreboding, the sense of
overpowering solitude that makes it almost a compelling place to visit."
He continued: "I went there often, but always in daylight. I never
went there at night...for I was sure that, if I did, I would not
return." And then he added with animation: "Only a fool would enter
Dead-man's Swamp after dark!"
I asked Papa what made Dead-man's
Swamp so especially dangerous. He mused upon it for a moment, then
replied: "biggest thing is getting lost. First you get lost, then
you lose your head,...then you are dead...d-e-a-d!"
"But," I protested, "all you
really need is a good compass...and you'd be all right."
"Haarumph," he retorted, eyeing
me as though I were an imbecile. "Hell of a lot o' good a compass'll
do you in there! So much iron in the water the damn thing'll spin
like a maple seed in a whirlwind!"
"Oh," I mumbled contritely,
and hastily changed the subject. "Tell me about your most exciting
adventures in Dead-man's Swamp."
"Actually had two close calls...make
that three. Stepped in a sink hole one time, and, if there hadn't
been a stout cedar within reach, I'd a been his-try." His voice trailed
off, and he shuddered involuntarily before continuing. "The other
two times involved bears. Went in there deer hunting one time after
a light snowfall. Wounded a forkhorn and started trailin' him.
Hadn't gone far when a big Blackie cut in on the trail."
I waited for him to continue.
He didn't. "What'd you do?" I asked cautiously.
"Went home!"
I got the message.
"The other one was a real doozie...my
fault really. I stayed in the Swamp too long. It was almost
dusk and I was tryin' to get out before nightfall. I wasn't payin'
close attention. Before I knew it, I had managed to get between a
cub and its mother. Oh boy! The ole gal let out one woof and
came for me. It was her or the water. No choice! By the
time I got out'a the Swamp I was covered with mud over every single square
inch of my body. I was damn lucky!"
Having heard Papa tell about
his harrowing experiences in Dead-man's Swamp, I wondered if there might
have been a humorous episode in his lifetime affair with the Swamp.
No sooner had I inquired, than a snicker escaped his lips. I sat
back, certain I would enjoy the tale I was about to hear.
"I had taken a friend, Jess
Thompson, in there hunting.
He set off in one direction, me in another. I hadn't
gone far when I spotted a doe and her fawn out in a big marshy clearing.
I stopped to watch them awhile. Suddenly I was distracted by movement
off to my right. As I looked over, I saw what I first mistook
as a large man in a black fur coat standing sniffing the air. It
was, of course, a good-size male Black Bear winding. He dropped from
sight and I went back to observing the two deer. A moment later the
bear burst from cover and bore down upon the deer. They bolted and
were able to elude their pursuer. The bear kind of shrugged and sauntered
to a big black cherry which he proceeded to climb and began cramming cherries
in to his mouth. It was about then that I hatched this plan to enable
Jess to bag that bear."
I leaned forward attentively,
wondering what possibly could have happened.
"I'd once heard that, if you
caught a bear up a tree and tied your coat around the trunk, the bear would't
come down. My plan was to get my coat around the
tree and go and fetch Jess. So I started crawling through the tall
marshgrass toward the cherry tree. I got about half way to the tree
when I ran out of cover. I could't see any other alternative but
to run as fast as I could to the tree and get the coat around the tree
before the bear could climb down. I bolted for the tree running over
rough, boggy ground. Well, that bear spotted me the instant I broke
cover and started shimmying down the tree. The closer I got to the
tree the closer the bear got to the ground. I saw he was gonna beat
me so I grabbed my old single-shot 22 magnum and fired a round in the air
hoping to stop the bear's descent. The shot however so startled the
bear that he jumped out of the tree right next to me. He lit and
took off full tilt scalping the ground with his paws as he raced in one
direction; I in another. When I looked back, he had covered more
than twice the distance I had! So poor Jess didn't get his bear after all...and
I never tried to test that coat theory again!"
I asked Papa about other interesting
people he had known who had also linked their destinies with the Swamp.
"I've known quite a few at that,"
Papa mused. There was Art Layton a hunter-trapper who accounted for
some one hundred and fifteen bears in his lifetime. Shot the biggest
Black Bear ever taken in Michigan--live weight over seven hundred pounds.
Shot that bear eatin' a smaller one he'd caught in one of his traps.!"
"Whew," I exclaimed.
"However, the most interesting
one of all," Papa continued, "was an ancient Indian who spent his whole
life in the Swamp. I don't think I ever heard his real name--everyone
just called him `Crawdad.' Seems Crawdad had a special fondness for
bear meat. Always kept a pack of bear hounds at his place.
One afternoon he let his three best dogs: Prince, Duke, and Queenie loose.
Why that Queenie was darn near big enough to look a man straight in the
eye. Had a head on her like a cinderblock! Leastwise the three
of 'em began runnin' a big Blackie. Kept at it all afternoon and
all night. Next day when Crawdad went back to find his dogs there
was Prince stone dead on the coat he had left. Looked like he had
been hit by a freight train. Crawdad backtracked Prince and came
to a clearing that looked like the aftermath of Custer's Last Stand.
In the middle of the clearing lay a dead bear. It weighed three hundred
seventy pounds. And there was Queenie lying on top of him.
She had nothing more than a chewed ear and a few cuts. Crawdad began
searching for Duke and, when he couldn't find him, went back to begin skinnin'
the bear. When he rolled the bear over he found Duke under the bear;
dead. That Swamp," Papa mused, "sure has taken its toll
over the years...on both dogs...and men." His voice drifted off without
the slightest trace of anything...save awe.
"What do you think about the
talk of cutting a road through the Swamp and setting up oil rigs?" I braced
myself. Papa scowled for a long time before answering. "I think
it'd be a crime!" he said forcefully. He abruptly got up and
stiffly walked away.
I have thought a lot about Dead-man's
Swamp and Papa Ruhlig since then. Papa died before they put the freeway
through, before the oil rigs, and before the multiple access roads.
In a way Papa's luck held.
He was one of the last to know Dead-man's Swamp as it was in the beginning:
sinister, darkly beautiful, captivating.
Some times at the dark of the
moon I lie thinking about Dead-man's Swamp and its meaning for modern man.
What will happen to us when there are no more places like that: places
where we can go to test ourselves...to know deep down what stuff we are
really made of? Where can we go to learn the virtue of humility?
What will happen if we can't restore our souls in wilderness? I shudder
to think how impoverished we all might become in a world without Dead-man's
Swamp!
(1) The real name of the Swamp in this story is
"Dead Stream Swamp;" so named because of the lack of current in the main
stream of the five tributary rivers which meander their way through the
Swamp: Cold Creek, Willow Run, Dead Stream, Addis, and Hay Marsh.
While Dead Stream is its proper name, many local residents utilize its
equally-appropriate version: "Dead-man's Swamp!"
Moreover, compass readings are not
affected in the Dead Stream Swamp, as they often are in the swamps of the
Upper Peninsula of Michigan.
Other than that, the events depicted
in this narrative are authentic; only people's names have been changed.
   
©Copyright 1997 Dan
Holland. All Rights Reserved.
Not to be copied, reproduced, or used without
permission.
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